The strengthening and supporting of a tree is known as “Bracing”. This involves the use of rods, cables or other more up-to-date systems, which use modern flexible materials to withstand the elements for prolonged periods of time whilst causing minimal effect to the health of the tree. Bracing of lower limbs can be achieved by the use of props which is often referred to as “vertical bracing”.
Branch and limb removal is carried out for one or more of the following reasons:
- To produce a given length of the main stem, or trunk, free from branches
- To help the tree form a satisfactory well-balanced crown
- To reduce the weight or alter the shape of the crown, if it is too large
- To remove diseased, dead or dying branches
- To reduce leaf surface and therefor reduce the demands on the root system
- To remove damaged branches
- To prevent the branches interfering with overhead cables, buildings, passing traffic, and to make the tree safe
Lower branches often have to be removed to get them out of the way of traffic, keep them away from a buildings, to make signs visible that were installed too far off the ground, let in more light, open up a desirable view or create a lower trunk free of branches. This type of pruning does much less damage to a tree than reducing the canopy size. It is best done gradually over a period of years.
People often want a tree to be smaller because it has grown too big or unsafe. After performing a risk assessment we can determine if the tree is safe.
Unlike a thinning cut, a drop-crotching cut does not cut back to a natural boundary, this means that decay can spread quickly inside cut branches, for this reason it is best not to perform crown reduction if at all possible.
Crown thinning is a pruning technique primarily used on hardwood trees. Crown thinning is the selective removal of stems and branches to increase light penetration and air movement throughout the crown of a tree. The intent is to improve a tree’s structure and form while making life uncomfortable for tree pests.
What constitutes a dangerous or hazardous tree ?
A dangerous tree is one which is in such a poor condition that it may be about to collapse either in part or whole. A dangerous tree may or may not be hazardous depending upon where it grows. A tree in a privately owned field is less potentially hazardous than one in a public park, for example.
During a trees life cycle it is natural for some branches to die back especially during periods of drought or through storm damage – and they are eventually shed.
It is important for reasons of safety involving persons or property to have deadwood in your tree regularly inspected and cleared of any danger or liability of falling branches.
Hedges of all sizes and varieties can be trimmed, reduced in height and/or cut back. Reductions are normally performed to no more than 1/3 in order to sustain optimum health.
Most evergreen formal hedges like to be trimmed two or three times a year, while they’re actively growing. Conifer hedges such as leylandii need regular pruning or these fast-growers will soon outgrow their location.
- Most deciduous trees are best pruned when dormant, in late autumn or winter. Don’t prune in early spring, as many trees bleed sap if cut at this time of year.
- The exceptions to the ‘deciduous tree’ rule are maple, horse chestnut, birch, walnut and cherry trees which all bleed extensively, even towards the end of their dormant season, so prune these in mid-summer after new growth has matured.
- Conifers require little or no regular pruning except the removal of dead or diseased branches in late summer.
